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Thread: Because We Needed More LJs in the Club

  1. #21
    Senior Member AF96XJ's Avatar
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    When I blew up my spider gears in my d30 i toy'd with the idea of d44. I called dynatrac and 4 wheel parts and all the d44 for XJ/TJ/LJ were $4k+. That was not going to happen. Then I called an offroad shop about building me d44 out of a mid 70's bronco/F150 and that would be about $2500 with locker/chromos. But then I would need to do something about the bolt pattern. Good news is that with an 8.8, some broncos and F150's did come with 8.8's and you can swap out the carrier and only be into for couple hundred for the rear axle and now you'd need new rims. They also said I would have to upgrade my master cylinder. I ended up getting a zip locker for my d30 and put in a super 30 kit. The guys at bones customs/jeep west said they have played on that set with 37's for years before they broke a r&p. I ended paying $1800 including install. I've seen HP D30 on craigslist for just a $150.
    96' Jeep Cherokee XJ, 4.5" LA Lift, 33x12.5 BFG MT,s, Or-fab rock crawler bumper, 9500# Smittybuilt winch,

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  2. #22
    Senior Member Bradzuzu's Avatar
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    I should start doing gears I’d make a killin !! I haven’t been into the 30’s but I’ve done 35 rears and they’re small .. how big is a 30 , are they the same size r&p as a 35 or are they closer to a Dana 44 ? I know they have that crazy spread between the balljoints... In he past I’ve ran 35’s and 38’s on Dana 44’s and only spit a cap once (all stock stuff) ... Is really like tobget into building a Dana 44 with thick cut gears , 60 knuckles for the bigger shafts ... I think that would be a strong setup..
    Your never really done but testing and modifying is all part of the fun !!

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  3. #23
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    I'm leaning more and more towards beefing up an HP30. I found an old Four Wheeler article about beefing up JK Dana 30s. I think I'll take some advice from it.

    $200 HP30 from a '92-'99 XJ at Pick-n-Pull. A bunch are in the area right now.
    $750 for Yukon gears with installation. (Jeep West. I think I can do better)
    $100 Cryogenically treat ring & pinion. (+50% stronger) Only know of places in CA though.
    $500 Super 30 axles to replace my 27 spline axles.
    $300 OX parts to convert it from 27 spline to 30 spine
    $110 Synergy Inner Axle Sleeves: 2"x.25" DOM thick sleeves
    $70 Synergy Inner C gusset kit
    ------
    $2000

    @Brazuzu Dana 30 are like baby ring gears. 7"
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - 4" Superlift + 1" BL, Currie CAs, 4:1 T-Case, OX locked HP30 front with OX locked 8.8 rear, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ, Color: TBD, maybe I'll keep it clean enough that you can tell. Maybe not!

  4. #24
    Drives like Grampa cjsrebiff's Avatar
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    I like your idea of the Dana 30 build. Why go to 37s? You are able to get through any thing on 35s. Cept maybe Crushers, stuff like that. To me it doesn't pan out for other upgrades you would need. And the stability of the Jeep.
    That article is good info. I was going to point it out.
    Have fun!!!!
    Biff - short for Bifford aka - Byph
    There is no best vehicle. It depends on the terrain, tires, driver, luck, and lots of happenstance.
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  5. #25
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    Turns out a couple things have changed since that article. Biggest one is that Revolution came out with 30 spline Dana 30 axles with the larger 5-7166X/"1350-style" ujoints in them. Backordered, but definitely eyeballing them.

    Also as I've talked around, people are saying the the weaker inner C issue is mostly a heavier JK issue that some TJ people have decided to "solve a non-existing problem" on by doing. Anyone heard of a TJ with bent Cs? I'm reconsidering the gussets and the sleeves. Most importantly, some are saying that the there won't be room for the bigger u-joints if I add gussets, and I definitely see more value in the bigger u-joints than the gussets if only one will work at a time.

    Pick-n-pull score for the day. $80 including core. Straight and no bent brackets.
    HP30.jpg
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - 4" Superlift + 1" BL, Currie CAs, 4:1 T-Case, OX locked HP30 front with OX locked 8.8 rear, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ, Color: TBD, maybe I'll keep it clean enough that you can tell. Maybe not!

  6. #26
    Drives like Grampa cjsrebiff's Avatar
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    Just some food for thought before you change to 1350s. Remember the 1350 don't allow as much ujoint "flex" or "articulation" . Your 1310s didn't brake your ring gear did. Had your ujoint broke, you could have swapped it out and the trail and kept going. Id rather see a pic of you holding a busted ujoint not the guts of the front end!
    You are putting a stronger ring gear, axles, etc., but what is the weakest point? I would rather it be a ujoint than a hub or yolk or something in the Tcase.
    Not trying to insult intelligence, just throwing in thought.
    Last edited by cjsrebiff; 07-09-2018 at 07:56 AM.
    Biff - short for Bifford aka - Byph
    There is no best vehicle. It depends on the terrain, tires, driver, luck, and lots of happenstance.
    84 Wagoneer 'Trail Tank' - 35 SSRs, 8274, Detroits, FrankinLift and soft leather.
    Check out my Tank Thread - http://gitout.com/showthread.php?222...ion-Trail-Tank
    barefootrunnerd:
    "No helmet needed on this run, only on some of Biffs"

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsrebiff View Post
    Id rather see a pic of you holding a busted ujoint not the guts of the front end!
    You are putting a stronger ring gear, axles, etc., but what is the weakest point? I would rather it be a ujoint than a hub or yolk or something in the Tcase.
    No, you are totally right. Last night I was just thinking the same thing. I asked the JF guys what they thought my new weakest link would be, but no one replied. I do worry that by staying with the D30, maybe I don't want to build the axles too much or they will remain stronger than my ring/pinion. Axle would have left me with 3WD!! Does that qualify as 50% better than 2WD?

    You have any thoughts on what the right balance is? I want to build it big enough that I don't have to worry about breaking it, but if it does break, I do want it to be trail repairable. Cheapest route would be this, but I don't know if my skinny pedal habits really warrant building bigger while it's apart.
    • HP30 4.88 R&P + cryo treatment
    • Ten Factory 27 spline chromoly with 5-760X u-joints (my current axles, replacing the u-joints I busted separating the shafts)


    From there I have options to stay with the 27 spline with bigger u-joints, upgrade to 30 spline with either traditional u-joints or bigger ones. So many **** options.
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - 4" Superlift + 1" BL, Currie CAs, 4:1 T-Case, OX locked HP30 front with OX locked 8.8 rear, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ, Color: TBD, maybe I'll keep it clean enough that you can tell. Maybe not!

  8. #28
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    I like the idea of making the unjoints the weak link. They are small, easy to carry spare ones, and field repairable.
    Larrie
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luinil View Post
    I like the idea of making the unjoints the weak link. They are small, easy to carry spare ones, and field repairable.
    I half buy it. I've yet to see a u-joint actually fail that didn't destroy the yoke ears on its way out, but you can definite field swap a complete axle, and I have more room in my LJ than my TJ.

    I'm thinking I'll stick with my current 27 spline chromoly. Put some high quality u-joints (stock size) and carry my original front axles as spares for long trips.
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - 4" Superlift + 1" BL, Currie CAs, 4:1 T-Case, OX locked HP30 front with OX locked 8.8 rear, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ, Color: TBD, maybe I'll keep it clean enough that you can tell. Maybe not!

  10. #30
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    Rodney has had good luck with standard U-Joints. Seems reasonable...

    I've heard the weak link argument and don't buy it. Why do you want a weak link? That seems like asking for trouble!! Based on the motor power... run a conservative tire size / style that will make it near impossible to break whatever components you have. Essentially, the tire will break free or fail before anything in the drivetrain.

    My old 4runner was a good example. 4 Cylinder + Auto + Built Axle (cromoly + high pinion + bracing) + 35" Tires = Quite literally impossible to break. The Taco is pushing the line a bit with 37s but still... The tires should break free first (light weight, conservative tread). That's the downside to tractor tires. You can get them jammed in a spot and really do some damage. Or pushing the tire size limit compared to axle/components.

    Realistically, your suggested setup should be alright with 35s. However, it would be invincible with 33s. Just as going to a built 44 would be invincible with 35s. Question is... are you feeling like doing trail repairs or wrench in the garage?? Risk/Reward
    2010 Winnie View - Tuned, 31" Duratrac, 2" Lift, ARB Dual Compressor, 920W Solar, Compressor Fridge/Freezer
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