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Thread: Because We Needed More LJs in the Club

  1. #51
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    I think Rodney has this conversion. Toss the balancer and replace the flange wwitha yoke. Tom Wood recommends against it for manual transmissions because of t-case "chatter." The auto tranny can absorb it but the stick doesn't?

    In the rear I'm not technically replacing my old drive shaft, I am just swapping out the CV yoke piece for a flange mount, so it I do have issues with that ujoint wearing out, I can swap the yoke back in and convert the t-case output to a yoke.
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - 4" Superlift + 1" BL, Currie CAs, 4:1 T-Case, OX locked HP30 front with OX locked 8.8 rear, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ, Color: TBD, maybe I'll keep it clean enough that you can tell. Maybe not!

  2. #52
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    Been having buyers remorse for the last few month on fixing my D30 rather than upgrading (conveniently I didn't spend much)... and I feel compelled to do something crazy for my 40th bday... 1 tons would be SUCH a fun project, and well at that point, really 40s only make sense. So I've spent the last couple months researching.

    Definitely don't have the coin to just call up Currie & get a couple D60s given that axles are just the beginning of the spending. I found a guy with a shortened, locked, fully 35-spline 79 Ford D60 with 5.38s and a matching Sterling 10.25 for $3500. Rear is welded so I'll have to put a proper locker in it but the gears are right. Still has drum brakes so I'd have to upgrade that too (lots of kits for that). Signed up for some PCC welding classes to get some formal training to replace my current YouTube + trial and error education that I only currently trust for fixing shock mounts and such.

    Can't get the cost of coilovers or struts passed the wife, so I'd stick with a custom long arm kit (3 link + pan front and triangulated 4 link rear) with standard 5.5" coil springs. Probably wise to get high line front fenders. For rear I have armor so I'll just make a new cut out and move my tube fenders higher. The LJ has an extra frame bracket where the gas tank it installed. Pretty easy to remove it and mount it to the rear bracket like the TJ has, pushing the tank back 5". Probably stretch front forward 2" and rear back 2". I'll probably do a hydro-assist, but still working out the rest of the details about the steering setup.

    Oh, I also just got a daily driver so I while I still won't be trailering the LJ, I won't be burning 40s rubber as a daily driver. Am kinda worried about how wise it is to drive a Jeep with 40s to the Rubicon and back annually though.

    Am I crazy or just crazy enough? ;-)
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - 4" Superlift + 1" BL, Currie CAs, 4:1 T-Case, OX locked HP30 front with OX locked 8.8 rear, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ, Color: TBD, maybe I'll keep it clean enough that you can tell. Maybe not!

  3. #53
    Drives like Grampa cjsrebiff's Avatar
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    What engine do you have? Dana 60s and 40s...will you be able to turn them?
    I see the 5:38s but still...
    Biff - short for Bifford aka - Byph
    There is no best vehicle. It depends on the terrain, tires, driver, luck, and lots of happenstance.
    84 Wagoneer 'Trail Tank' - 35 SSRs, 8274, Detroits, FrankinLift and soft leather.
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    barefootrunnerd:
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  4. #54
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    4.0L. As I read the forums I see, call it a 50/50 split of people doing LS swaps and people still having the original 4 liter. Even see a reasonable number of daily drivers with the 4.0. I initially had the same thoughts you are about power.
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - 4" Superlift + 1" BL, Currie CAs, 4:1 T-Case, OX locked HP30 front with OX locked 8.8 rear, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ, Color: TBD, maybe I'll keep it clean enough that you can tell. Maybe not!

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